Doubtless you've heard some version of that comment in recent years. Well,
they are getting more realistic, for two reasons. One you know about, but
one you might not.
The prong of the problem everyone understands is that technological advances
in printing, scanning, 3-D modeling, and so on have made copying through
reverse-engineering easier and cheaper than ever. And if you ask any brand owner
why counterfeits are so convincing these days, that's the answer you'll get.
But there's another factor. Now that Western companies are pervasively
outsourcing the manufacture of their products to factories overseas, they're
entrusting their precious intellectual property - designs, molds,
specifications, trade secrets - to hundreds of contractors and subcontractors
all over the world. It's extremely hard to police global supply chains, and IP
is leaking out through 1,000 cracks.
The simplest and most dramatic form of the problem is something that
Asia-based investigators jocularly refer to as the "third shift," the "midnight
shift," or the "ghost shift." Say a U.S. company orders 20,000 dresses from an
overseas factory. The contractor fills the order during its two day shifts but
then runs off 10,000 extra at night, possibly using inferior materials. Those he
sells out the back door, so to speak, trademark and all.
In the case of apparel, says Vincent Volpi, the head of PICA, a
brand-protection firm, third-shift products may be "substantially
indistinguishable, down to the same thread count."
Daniel C.K. Chow, an IP-law professor at Ohio State University, recalls his
own former employer, a multinational consumer-brands company he declines to
name, having a third-shift problem at a factory in China that produced packaging
and labels.
The contractor "would sell the night shift to counterfeiters," says Chow.
"You'd wind up discovering a counterfeit product in a genuine package."
Sometimes even brand owners can't tell whether an unauthorized product is a
counterfeit (a product bearing a trademark that its maker never had authority to
use) or the result of third-shift activity.
In late 2001, for instance, Too Inc., which runs the Limited Too chain of
clothing stores for girls, discovered that discounter TJ Maxx was selling 31
styles of Limited Too apparel at markdowns - 653,000 garments. TJ Maxx was
stocking many more units than Too had ever ordered from its Asian suppliers, and
what Too had ordered was still being sold in its own stores.
When Too sued TJ Maxx to stop sales, though, its lawyers candidly admitted
that they weren't sure whether the clothes were counterfeits or third-shift
goods. Though discounters can always be enjoined from selling counterfeits, some
judges will let them sell third-shift goods unimpeded, viewing the latter as
legally "genuine."
In Too's case, the judge enjoined the sales, ruling that even third-shift
goods were a form of trademark infringement, albeit less serious than
counterfeiting. That seems to be the emerging view. (The case settled in
2003.)
In addition to literal night-shift activity, the "third shift" is an umbrella
term for any form of unauthorized production by otherwise authorized
contractors. A common variant arises when a brand owner tells an overseas
contractor to stop producing a line of product, and the contractor doesn't.
"You've taught a company to produce something," says one China-based
investigator who requested anonymity, "and perhaps that's all those people know
how to do. Just because you have agreements doesn't mean those people are going
to stop doing what they've learned."
Even in its wider sense, the third shift is a subset of a broader problem:
the countless ways in which companies lose control of intellectual property when
relying on an outsourced supply chain. IP leakage is the glitch in the ascendant
paradigm for doing business.
"When you're outsourcing, you provide specifications, drawings, blueprints,"
says Peter Humphrey, who runs a risk-management firm in Shanghai called
ChinaWhys. "What can easily happen is, someone takes it down the road to his
brother or uncle," who also has a factory. "Before you know it, there's ten or
20 factories in that county making knockoffs of your product."
In the mid-1990s, according to Ping Deng, a professor of business
administration at Maryville University in St. Louis, Yamaha set up three
motorbike joint ventures in China, only to have a local partner sell its
technology to rivals. Within four months counterfeit Yamahas were being sold,
Deng says, and by the early part of this decade, five of six Yamahas in China
were counterfeit.
When this sort of IP theft is thrown into the mix, the boundary between
third-shift goods and counterfeits begins to melt away.
"When a brand owner shuts down a factory," explains Jeffrey Unger, CEO of
GenuOne, a brand-protection management firm, "you'll see the same factory start
up two months later making counterfeit product. They know where to buy the raw
materials and know how to move product."
Variations on that theme now challenge the multinational chemical,
pharmaceutical, and information technology companies that have spent billions to
set up R&D facilities in China, lured by the 600,000 Chinese engineers its
universities graduate each year. A disloyal engineer can steal a gigabyte of
proprietary information by saving it to a tiny USB flash drive, according to
Humphrey of ChinaWhys.
In one of Humphrey's cases, he says, an employee stole a new industrial
process for manufacturing a chemical and then started a competing business in
collusion with his former employer's suppliers and customers. In another,
research on nanotechnology was stolen.
"In the cases I've dealt with, the criminals are people with Ph.D.s," says
Humphrey.
Brand owners typically don't admit to having suffered from third-shift or
other IP-leakage problems. "It makes you seem like you've been an idiot,"
explains professor Chow. "These are people you've hired. You didn't exercise due
diligence." Most brand owners approached for this story either declined to
discuss the issue or denied experiencing the problem.
There is, nonetheless, one brave Western company that has come out of the
closet about its struggles with the third shift. When New Balance thought it had
been wronged by a former contractor in China, it decided to litigate in the
Chinese courts.
Many companies have avoided that path for fear of either publicizing their
own mistakes or alienating local officials with whom they'll be dealing. But New
Balance chose to fight. Other brand owners can learn much from its eye-popping
experience.
From a seventh-floor picture window at New Balance headquarters in Boston's
Brighton section, the concrete horseshoe of Harvard Stadium looms to the
northeast, while stately Baker Library of Harvard Business School commands the
view due east. Yet the most noteworthy landmark lies just out of sight, about a
mile to the west. There stands a rarity: a functioning American shoe
factory.
Executives at New Balance, a private company celebrating its 100th
anniversary this year, are proud to own that plant and four others in New
England. They still produce 25 percent of the company's footwear. But tradition
and patriotism carry a company only so far: New Balance, which reported $1.54
billion in sales last year, competes in the same world as everyone else. About
70 percent of its shoes are now made in China and the other 5 percent in
Vietnam.
New Balance began outsourcing in the early 1980s, using factories in Japan,
then South Korea, then Taiwan. In the early 1990s its Taiwanese suppliers began
moving their factories to mainland China. One of those contractors was Horace
Chang, now 59, a tough, keen businessman. (Chang declined to be interviewed for
this article, citing New Balance's legal proceedings against him.)
In 1990, Chang built a factory in Yang Jiang City, in Guangdong province near
Hong Kong. At first his factory, which can employ up to 4,000 workers, made New
Balance shoes only for export. But in January 1995, at Chang's request, New
Balance licensed him to also distribute its shoes to the Chinese domestic
market.
Chang's sales were initially modest, according to Ed Haddad, 57, New
Balance's vice president for intellectual property. But soon he had success with
an inexpensive style known as a "classic." It's a colorful fashion shoe with "no
technology," Haddad explains - meaning none of the fancy midsole engineering
that defines a high-performance shoe.
In June 1999, Chang stunned New Balance executives at a meeting in Boston by
announcing that he was projecting sales of 250,000 pairs that year - quadruple
what he'd sold the year before.
"We were amazed," recalls Haddad. But not pleased. New Balance executives
feared that the company's name was becoming associated in China with a fashion
shoe, jeopardizing its reputation as a performance brand. They told Chang to
pull back from selling classics.
"He was dumbfounded," Haddad recalls. "He came here thinking he was doing a
great thing - like the cat that brings you the dead mouse - and we slapped him
on the hand."
Chang didn't pull back. Rather, he ordered materials to produce 450,000
pairs, as the New Balance sourcing department reported to its alarmed management
later that year. Soon Chang's inexpensive shoe was seeping out of China into
premium markets like Japan. Licensed New Balance distributors there were
furious.
In August 1999, New Balance notified Chang that it was terminating his
license to make and distribute classics, effective Dec. 31, 1999.
"What happened then is when everything went crazy," Haddad recounts. Upon
termination, the contract called for Chang to return to New Balance all its
confidential technical, production, sales, and marketing information, including
molds, specifications, signs, labels, packages, wrappers, and ads. He
didn't.
"He continued to sell," says Haddad, "and was actively trying to sell product
outside the country: in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Italy, Germany." (It's unclear
whether Chang continued to make classics after 1999 or sold stockpiled
inventory. Chang told the Wall Street Journal in late 2002, when it wrote
about the situation, that he still considered himself entitled to make New
Balance shoes.)
At New Balance's request, the provincial divisions of China's Administration
of Industry and Commerce (AIC) seized about 100,000 pairs of Chang's shoes from
his stores and factories. During one raid New Balance made an alarming
discovery: Chang had launched a competing line of classic-style sneakers under
his own brand.
These he called Henkees (a meaningless word in Chinese), and he marked them
with a logo on the saddle that purported to be a distortion of "Hi." At a glance
it looked a lot like New Balance's block N saddle design. Chang had obtained a
Chinese trademark on the Hi logo without New Balance's noticing.
Like most Western companies doing business in Asia, New Balance had inserted
arbitration clauses in its contracts so that it wouldn't have to deal with
foreign courts. Disputes were to be heard by an international arbiter applying
Massachusetts law.
But while an arbiter could assess damages, he could not provide New Balance
what it needed in this crisis: an injunction stopping Chang from selling New
Balance classics. To get that, the company had to sue in the Shenzhen
Intermediate People's Court for Guangdong province. In late 2000 it did.
To oversee the litigation the company retained Harley Lewin, an IP litigator
at New York City's Greenberg Traurig. A barrel-chested man with a trim white
beard, Lewin decorates his office with trophies from past assignments: a
gorgeous leather Chlo?handbag, buttery but bogus; a bottle of Pure Vodka that
mimics an Absolut bottle's design; a phony Titleist golf ball.
"I've tried cases in 45 countries over 30 years," he says. "I sit there next
to counsel in the courtroom in Israel, Cypress, Mexico, Paraguay, Brazil. So I'm
pretty ready for any hook somebody's going to throw at me."
China's intellectual-property laws are actually pretty good, Lewin explains.
They were upgraded as a condition of its accession to the World Trade
Organization in 2001. But the challenges of litigating in China have "nothing to
do with the law as written," he says. "They have much to do with the law as
applied."
China's courts are a product of some extraordinary recent history. In the
late 1950s, Chinese lawyers were denounced as "rightists" and began fleeing the
profession. From 1966 to 1976, during the Cultural Revolution, the nation's
legal system was abolished, its law schools shuttered, and its remaining lawyers
sent to the countryside for reeducation through labor.
The nation's current legal system has been entirely rebuilt since 1979, and
it bears some scars. Most of the older judges are not lawyers, for instance, but
former military or police officials. Judges outnumber lawyers in China 200,000
to 140,000.
More important, even legally trained judges have scant judicial independence,
according to Jerome Cohen, a law professor at New York University and a renowned
authority on the Chinese legal system.
"They are under political control," he says. "Judges are selected locally,
paid locally, promoted locally, and fired locally. A foreign company - or even a
Chinese company from another part of China - going up against a locally owned
enterprise has an uphill fight." Plus, Cohen adds, "corruption is a very serious
problem."
Lewin understood that since New Balance was trying to enforce Chang's
contract termination - potentially costing local factory workers their jobs - he
was up against it. Still, when the Shenzhen court handed Chang a sweeping
victory in February 2002, Lewin was surprised.
The court found that while New Balance had terminated its licenses with
Chang's Hong Kong operating company, it had failed to do so with respect to
Chang's Yang Jiang factory. And though that factory was never licensed to
distribute New Balance shoes, the court found that its license to make shoes
carried an implied license to distribute - and even a right to do so without
paying any royalties.
Lewin considered the court's reasoning so implausible that he suspected
corruption, he admits. He appealed to the Guangdong province High Court. The
High Court heard the case during the summer of 2002. Then Lewin heard nothing
for many months. Eventually he hired an investigator to make inquiries. Finally
word came back through two intermediaries: "For $300,000 we could have our
decision," Lewin says.
"We were on the head of a pin," he recalls. "Clearly we weren't going to do
it. But you're being asked directly by the tribunal hearing your case." As
politely as he could, he responded that, no, New Balance really couldn't do
anything like that.
More weeks passed. Lewin made more inquiries. Word came back again. "The
price was down to a hundred grand," he says. "As God is my witness." New Balance
again refused.
Still more time passed. In September 2003 the lead judge on the three-judge
panel contacted New Balance through a different intermediary. He asked for
$100,000 again, and then came down to $50,000, according to Lewin. This time New
Balance reported the request to the province's supervisory bureau for
courts.
In April 2004, after no action had been taken, New Balance formally
petitioned the court to replace the judge, though without stating the reason. A
few days later the judge was removed from the case (but not from the bench). No
explanation was given.
(Asked about Lewin's allegations by phone, the replaced judge told FORTUNE,
"That's impossible. Are you interviewing me? You cannot interview me like this,"
and hung up. In response to a letter outlining the accusations, a court public
affairs staffer said foreign media had to direct inquiries to the Foreign
Ministry.)
We don't need to speculate about the way a Western judge might have viewed
the same facts, because in 2004 one did. After New Balance invoked its
arbitration clause, international arbiter Natasha Lisman, an American litigator
in Boston, found the evidence "clear and persuasive" that Chang had sold at
least 200,000 pairs of New Balance shoes after termination of his contracts.
Chang's marketing of Henkees also violated a noncompetition clause in the
contract, Lisman ruled. In December 2004 she awarded New Balance $9.9 million.
So far, New Balance hasn't collected a penny; it's still hunting for assets in
Chang's name.
In January 2005 the Guangdong High Court finally ruled. It affirmed Chang's
victory. The court did throw New Balance one bone, finding that the company had
terminated the Yang Jiang factory's license as of July 27, 2001 - 19 months
after it thought it had. (The termination had been effected, the court said, by
a letter to the factory to which New Balance had attached no legal significance
at the time.)
But the belated termination afforded New Balance no real benefit. The Chinese
IP authorities interpreted the ruling as permitting shoes made before that date
to still be sold. Accordingly, they released tens of thousands of pairs of
previously seized shoes to Chang, who dumped them on the market - to the chagrin
of New Balance's new licensed Chinese distributor.
In late spring 2005, New Balance petitioned for a rehearing. It heard nothing
for almost a year. Then, on March 28, 2006, out of the blue, the court granted a
hearing on the motion. Though originally scheduled for April 24, it has now been
postponed.
The case is almost moot at this point, since only a small number of Chang's
New Balance shoes are still on sale. Haddad believes that Chang no longer makes
them and that he's focused on his Henkee brand instead. New Balance has
petitioned China's trademark office to cancel Chang's distorted-Hi logo, but
otherwise it left that brand alone.
Today the company has a more pressing concern: a competitor that launched in
2005 under the brand name New Barlun. New Barlun uses packaging, logos, store
displays, and slick advertising brochures that by Western standards are
audacious ripoffs of New Balance's.
"We have counterfeits all the time," comments Haddad. "That's not anything
new. But to interpret an American company - how we think, how we operate -
that's what's really disturbing us."
However, as often happens once a company has experienced an IP leak, New
Balance executives don't know whether the New Barlun knockoff has any
relationship to its earlier problems or is a completely reverse-engineered
operation - albeit a diabolically sophisticated one.
Some New Balance officials have their suspicions. "They know our company so
well," Haddad marvels.
Despite all the challenges, New Balance has never considered withdrawing its
factories from China. The economic allure is too compelling, and as Haddad
points out, its products would have been counterfeited in China to some degree
no matter where the company made them.
Like others with experience in Asia, New Balance monitors its supply chain to
the extent it can, checks out contractors in advance, writes tough audit clauses
into contracts, and enforces them. It now embeds encrypted information in
security tags and monitors the number of tags it issues to combat third shifts.
Other companies use invisible inks and dyes both to authenticate their products
and to trace diversions from authorized distribution channels.
The GenuOne company in Boston even sells software that lets brand owners
discreetly monitor how many tagged components a contractor orders: If too few,
the contractor may be substituting inferior parts; if too many, there might be a
third shift.
"If you don't do your upfront due diligence in managing the supply chain,"
advises Haddad, "you're just going to be subject to problems." But after a
pause, he adds a weary coda: "Not that you won't be even then."